Ssh….it’s a secret

Out of the main tourist season, particularly at Christmas, the Baix Empordà region and the charming Costa Brava villages of Llafranc, Tamariu, and Calella de Palafrugell reveal a quieter, more soulful beauty.

From October, the crowds thin, the pace slows, and the whitewashed houses and cobbled lanes take on a serene, timeless quality. While the weather can be a little unpredictable during autumn, Christmas is often glorious, with blue skies and 14 to 16 degrees during the day and low single digits at night. You can paddleboard and swim, with the water temperature the same as August in the UK, but from personal experience we’d recommend wearing a wetsuit.

The cooler air is perfect for hiking the local area, particularly the coastal Camí de Ronda paths, where panoramic views of rugged cliffs and secluded coves offer moments of breathtaking tranquility. Further inland, there are the Greenways of Girona and the local Tren Petit route which links the local town of Palafrugell with Palamos. It is a fantastic multi-use bridleway that allows walkers, runners, gravel bikers and mountain bikers to complete a circular loop from Llafranc to Pala, to Palamos and then back through the coast via Cap Roig, Calella de Palafrugell (stopping off for a coffee or beer) and back across to Llafranc.

The cooler months are also perfect for cycling through the countryside, dotted with medieval villages like Pals and Peratallada, which is more enjoyable without the heat. It wouldn’t be an over-exaggeration to say that the Girona area is one of the best places in the world for road cycling. Some of the top riders live in the local area and we used to see Lance Armstrong’s family on the beach in Llafranc every summer as he is friends with the owners of the Hotel Llafranc.

In the villages, the festive season brings gentle cheer: lights strung across narrow streets, nativity scenes in church squares, and seafood feasts in local tavernas.

With the Mediterranean calm and often crystal clear, winter is also ideal for kayaking or photography along the dramatic coastline. It’s a season for unhurried exploration, when the Costa Brava’s natural and cultural riches feel like a well-kept secret.