Ssh….it’s a secret

Out of the main tourist season, particularly at Christmas, the Baix Empordà region and the charming Costa Brava villages of Llafranc, Tamariu, and Calella de Palafrugell reveal a quieter, more soulful beauty.

Late summer through early autumn

From mid to late September, the crowds thin, the pace slows, and the whitewashed houses and cobbled lanes take on a serene, timeless quality. While the weather can be a little unpredictable during autumn, Christmas is often glorious, with blue skies and 14 to 16 degrees during the day and low single digits at night. You can usually paddleboard and swim, with the water temperature being similar to that found in the UK in August, but from personal experience we’d recommend wearing a wetsuit.

The cooler air is perfect for hiking the local area, particularly the coastal Camí de Ronda paths, where panoramic views of rugged cliffs and secluded coves offer moments of breathtaking tranquility. Further inland, there are the Greenways of Girona and the local Tren Petit route which links the local town of Palafrugell with Palamos. It is a fantastic multi-use bridleway that allows walkers, runners, gravel bikers and mountain bikers to complete a circular loop from Llafranc to Pala, to Palamos and then back through the coast via Calella de Palafrugell (stopping off for a coffee or beer) and back across to Llafranc. The botanical gardens at Cap Roig are particularly impressive.

The cooler months are also perfect for cycling through the countryside, dotted with local medieval villages like Pals and Peratallada, which is more enjoyable without the heat. You can also explore further afield into the Alta Emporda region, famous for Dali and Emporda wines, the volcanic La Garrotxa region and the town of Olot, and into the foothills of the Pyrenees to places such as Camprodon, Setcasas, or the Vale of Nuria.

It wouldn’t be an over-exaggeration to say that the Girona area is one of the best places in the world for road cycling. Some of the top riders live in the local area and we used to see Lance Armstrong’s family on the beach in Llafranc every summer as he is friends with the owners of the Hotel Llafranc. Check out the Experiences page for more information.

Christmas & the Three Kings

When the weather is good, it is glorious. Last Christmas, we took our SUP and wet suits and we paddled and swam in the sea. With the Mediterranean calm and often crystal clear, winter is also ideal for kayaking or photography along the dramatic coastline. It’s a season for unhurried exploration, when the Costa Brava’s natural and cultural riches feel like a well-kept secret.

Christmas in Llafranc, Palafrugell and the Baix Empordà is a magical time filled with charm, tradition, and festive warmth. The region comes alive with twinkling lights, artisan markets, and famous live nativity scenes such as the one in the old village of Pals and Castell-Platja d’Aro).

A highlight of the season is the celebration of Reis Mags—The Three Kings—on January 5th, when villages like Llafranc host colourful parades with Melchior, Gaspar, and Balthazar arriving on by boat (one year the boat sank as it entered the harbour!) to hand out sweets to children. It’s a joyful and authentic Catalan experience, perfect for visitors seeking a peaceful, culturally rich winter getaway by the sea.

Easter and Spring

Easter and springtime in Llafranc and the Baix Empordà offer a perfect blend of natural beauty and vibrant local traditions. Have a look at this recent article by the Financial Times from 16th May 2025 entitled “Rustic retreats in Catalonia’s Empordà”. However, I wouldn’t describe the Emporda as being like the Cotswolds – it’s far better than that!

As the countryside bursts into bloom, with fields of wildflowers and the scent of pine and sea air, local villages celebrate Setmana Santa (Holy Week) with solemn processions, music, and religious ceremonies. It’s an ideal time for a peaceful escape, as hotels and restaurants start opening for the summer season, combining culture, nature, and coastal charm.

There are plenty of local festivals to enjoy, including the famous Spring Festival of Palafrugell which date back to the 1960s when the Franco regime banned the traditional Carnival celebrations. The main event was the Carroussel, a parade of floats and troupes through the town’s streets along with other activities and events. This is now recreated by local performers and is famous across Spain.

Sant Jordi, celebrated on April 23rd, is one of the most beloved festivals in Catalonia, often compared to Valentine’s Day, but with a uniquely cultural twist. In Palafrugell and across the region, the streets come alive with stalls selling books and roses, as it’s traditional for men to give roses and women to give books—though today, everyone exchanges both. It’s a day filled with romance, literature, and local pride. Visitors can enjoy live readings, music performances, and explore charming book markets set against the backdrop of medieval architecture. For a memorable day, take a stroll through the old town of Palafrugell, pick up a locally published book, enjoy a drink in the square and watch the world go by.

May and June

May and June in Llafranc are idyllic months for a spectacular wedding at El Far Hotel, offering a perfect blend of warm Mediterranean sunshine, lush natural beauty, and peaceful coastal charm. The days are bright and mild, with clear skies and gentle sea breezes creating an ideal setting for outdoor ceremonies, whether on the beach, in a secluded garden, or at a cliffside venue overlooking the bay. The hillsides and gardens are in full bloom, adding vibrant colour and romance to every photo. With fewer tourists than in the peak summer months, couples and guests can enjoy the tranquillity of the village, the elegance of local cuisine, and unforgettable sunsets over the sea. From intimate gatherings to stylish seaside receptions, Llafranc in late spring is the perfect place to say “I do.”

It’s also a good time to experience the prawns of Palamós—Gambes de Palamós—are renowned across Spain and beyond for their exceptional quality, flavour, and deep red colour. Caught from the crystal-clear depths of the Mediterranean just off the Costa Brava, these prawns are prized for their sweet, rich taste and firm, juicy texture.

What makes them truly special is a combination of factors: the specific seabed conditions off Palamós, the cool, nutrient-rich waters, and the skill of the local fishermen who use traditional, sustainable trawling methods. They’re typically grilled simply with sea salt or served in paellas and seafood stews, allowing their natural flavour to shine.

For a true local experience, visitors can sample them at one of the waterfront restaurants in Palamós or Llafranc—or even visit the fish market (La Llotja) to see the afternoon auction and learn about the fishing heritage that makes these prawns a culinary treasure of the Costa Brava.

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So, in the space of two weeks, you could swim in the sea, paddleboard or kayak the rocky coves, cycle around medieval villages, visit Iberian, Greek, and Roman ruins, explore Girona and Barcelona, eat in some of the best restaurants in the world, do a few days road trip around La Garrotxa and still have time to relax on the beach before the short flight back home. There aren’t many places in the world that are close to the UK that can offer so much in such as relatively small area…and we’ve only just scratched the surface of what’s on offer.